tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post8564168409225731129..comments2024-03-26T10:45:55.252-04:00Comments on Quindia Studios: Games Workshop Washesquindiahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14194306105013871853noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-3859211492252475392014-03-30T21:50:09.656-04:002014-03-30T21:50:09.656-04:00I like the one on the right too and I love using D...I like the one on the right too and I love using Devlan Mud or AP on my rank and file troops.Jasonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15613377657473057140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-5271484399384722642011-12-17T11:52:59.812-05:002011-12-17T11:52:59.812-05:00I'm a huge fan of GW washes, but I'm not c...I'm a huge fan of GW washes, but I'm not certain your figure needed the wash. The visual impact seems to be more of a color changer than a unifier or shader. I'm not a fan of what it did to the white, but it looks good on the red. The rest of it is OK, but again, I'm not sure that your painting needed it.<br /><br />For me, the best use I've found for the washes has been for subtle shading on flat painted surfaces. But if the figure is already shaded/highlighted, I'm not certain it adds a lot to a painted figure.ZeroTwentythreehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08447858247978320583noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-68518246361718824152011-12-17T00:10:40.690-05:002011-12-17T00:10:40.690-05:00Thanks to everyone for their remarks! I'll be ...Thanks to everyone for their remarks! I'll be posting more pics this weekend - still not sure if I'm going to take the plunge into inks as my 'normal' style, but we shall see...quindiahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14194306105013871853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-41319979746958805432011-12-16T20:25:18.184-05:002011-12-16T20:25:18.184-05:00I have tried shading with wood stains, but never l...I have tried shading with wood stains, but never liked the results. Your fig looks great! I'll have to pick up a bottle.Coryhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06311149148627142293noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-56587341956564924562011-12-16T18:07:41.885-05:002011-12-16T18:07:41.885-05:00Sorry previous two posts deleted due to misspellin...Sorry previous two posts deleted due to misspellings. =)<br />Really gives them the hard campaign look you were going for. I do the same thing. All my figures follow the foundry three step method. Then if I want that hard look I like to use citadel devlan mud, or badab black. You should give them a try if you haven't. Devlun mud might be the best paint ever invented though. =) works on everything. I think the Gryphonne Sepia gives to much red but really works well on the white uniform. I say Can't wait to see more.airbornegrove26https://www.blogger.com/profile/16167504949340980657noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-7464403489086449852011-12-16T18:00:28.220-05:002011-12-16T18:00:28.220-05:00This comment has been removed by the author.airbornegrove26https://www.blogger.com/profile/16167504949340980657noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-62478381280809144792011-12-16T17:50:00.480-05:002011-12-16T17:50:00.480-05:00This comment has been removed by the author.airbornegrove26https://www.blogger.com/profile/16167504949340980657noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-44702118703914839662011-12-16T14:22:53.123-05:002011-12-16T14:22:53.123-05:00I like the inked figure best, I do something very ...I like the inked figure best, I do something very similar with my figures, block paint, maybe a little shading or drybrushing, then I ink all over with Windsor and Newton Peat Brown writing ink. When dry I then hand varnish with matt varnish, this tends to take off some of the ink and keep it just in the crevices.Ray Rousellhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07352596392520905197noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-63932249093426327172011-12-16T11:51:15.685-05:002011-12-16T11:51:15.685-05:00I bought the citadel was set some 9 months ago and...I bought the citadel was set some 9 months ago and other than a cursory glance to look at the consistency (quite viscous for a wash) I still havent used them, some pro (competition) painters that Im acquainted with swear by the stuff. I use a "lot" of washes and glazes (thinned paint mostly) for smoothing out transitions. I also experiment with painting with only washes over white undercoat and like the affect, there's some ACW stuff on the blog done this way.<br /><br />Im not completely sold on washes over very light or white highlight but that is very much personal taste. In this instance I think thinned multiple coats would be the go, gives you more control on how much wash and where subsequent layers are applied. (always make sure layer is dry before adding more) I would be very interested to see this with a less yellow tone, maybe a greyish tone? Enough of me crapping on like I know what Im talking about, good post keep us updated.<br /><br />PPPaintPighttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09047331820540221681noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-60416148344368031162011-12-16T10:44:55.944-05:002011-12-16T10:44:55.944-05:00My painting method is very similar to John's -...My painting method is very similar to John's - prime white, block paint and then wash with the GW washed. I prefer "Ogryn flesh" for flesh and either Sepia or Devlan mud. The Sepia tone works very well with armore (my Romans and Dacians) as it gives a slight "rusty" color which I find appealing.<br /><br />If a figure has a large bit of fabric - a cape or prominent sash, I will just prime white and add a few layers for the color (usually either the blue or red washes).<br /><br />I like the control I have with the washes and prefer them over Army painter.<br />Milesjmilesrhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17961624317410579611noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-26231936513129770782011-12-16T10:06:04.142-05:002011-12-16T10:06:04.142-05:00Although I use AP, I do have a lot of experience w...Although I use AP, I do have a lot of experience with the GW washes. To real painters, my method is an anathema, I suspect. I prime white. Then used thinned paint to block colour the figure. I now have two depths of colour in a single pass. I then use the GW wash or AP to add a third depth. The washes I found most useful were the sepia and mud. I do like the darkest AP (black pigment) the most though, as it eliminates staining which I sometimes got with the wash over white and it does add a protective barrier. I brush it on and then about a minute later remove the excess with a dry brush. If the colour is a little dulled, I sometime brush on some highlights but this is seldom. If you look at the Prussians just placed on my blog, this was the method for all except for the Lutzows. This method really works well on Calpe and Front Rank and on Perry metals.<br /><br />My figures will never look as good as yours, but I spend less then 30 minutes per figure, and I believe they look pretty good.<br /><br />Johnjohn de terre neuvehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03898285039988448895noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2937554593589042647.post-41019287976672884032011-12-16T09:29:29.819-05:002011-12-16T09:29:29.819-05:00Actually I like the one on the left the most :) I ...Actually I like the one on the left the most :) I don't like the "washed" look on a mini, it makes them look dirty and quickly painted. You already did a very good job at shading and highlighting, so in my opinion this extra wash doesn't add much to the final result.Corvushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01600117824130934708noreply@blogger.com